This Secret Island Near Portugal’s Coast Is Protected, Remote, and Almost Too Beautiful to Be Real

1. It’s closer than you think (and harder to reach than it looks!)

The islands sit just off Peniche, about 10–15 km from the mainland. On a clear day, you can actually see them from the shore, which makes the trip feel easy. Well, that’s not always the case.

Boats depend entirely on sea conditions. Even in summer, departures get delayed or cancelled. The Atlantic here is not calm Mediterranean water; it can be rough, unpredictable, and very real.

If you get seasick easily, prepare accordingly. The crossing only takes around 30–45 minutes, but it can feel longer.

2. You can’t just show up

This is something I learned the hard way. The Berlengas are part of a protected nature reserve, and the number of daily visitors is limited. That means you cannot simply arrive in Peniche, walk to the harbor, and expect to get on the next boat.

When I first visited in 2017, tourism here was nowhere near what it is today. Even then, I made the mistake of assuming I could buy a ticket on the spot. I didn’t manage to get one. Boats were already full, and there were far fewer departures than there are now. 

Today, planning is not optional. You need a boat ticket and a nature reserve permit, and both can sell out days in advance during high season. Last-minute decisions can work, but you have a high chance of missing out.

3. The water looks tropical, but it’s not

The first thing you notice when you arrive is the color. That unreal turquoise, the kind you expect somewhere far from mainland Europe. In photos, it could easily pass for a Mediterranean island.

And to be fair, it really is that blue. It really is that clear. But it is not warm.

The Atlantic current keeps the water cold for most of the year, including peak summer. Even in August, when the sun is strong and the rocks are hot under your feet, the first step into the sea is a shock. The kind that makes you hesitate for a second before committing.

Swimming is absolutely possible, and plenty of people do it. On a calm day, it can even feel inviting. Just don’t expect Algarve temperatures or that slow, effortless slide into warm water.

4. There is almost no shade

When you step off the boat, the landscape feels raw and exposed. Pale rock, low vegetation, open sky. It is beautiful, but it offers very little protection.

There are hardly any trees, and natural shade is minimal. By midday, the sun reflects off the stone and water, and the heat feels stronger than you expect. Even on a breezy day, it catches up with you quickly.

I underestimated this the first time. I assumed a few hours on a small island would be manageable without much preparation. It wasn’t. Water becomes essential, not optional. Sunscreen is not something you apply once and forget. A hat makes a real difference.

There is a small café near the harbor, but once you start walking the trails, you are on your own.

5. It feels wild because it is

Berlengas is not a polished island destination. There are no beach clubs, no lined promenades, no carefully landscaped viewpoints. What you see is what you get.

The trails are rugged and sometimes uneven. The climbs are short but exposed. In certain sections, you are walking along dramatic cliffs with very little between you and the Atlantic.

Walking toward the Forte de São João Baptista, across the narrow stone bridge, is one of those moments that stays with you. It reminds you that this place belongs more to nature than to visitors.

That sense of wildness is exactly what makes it special. But it also means you need proper shoes, a steady step, and a bit of awareness. This is not a theme park version of nature. It is the Atlantic, uninterrupted.

6. Peniche itself is… just fine

Most locals will describe Peniche as a cute seaside town. And it is. White houses, fishing boats in the harbor, a laid-back coastal atmosphere. It feels authentic and unpolished in a good way. But if I’m being honest, I wouldn’t plan a trip to Peniche just for Peniche.

The town works perfectly as a gateway to the Berlengas. It’s practical, compact, and easy to navigate before catching your boat. There are some genuinely good seafood restaurants, and that was probably my favorite part.

Beyond that, though, Peniche is not one of my top destinations in Portugal. It serves a purpose, and it serves it well, but for me, Peniche is a stop. Berlengas is the reason.

7. The crowd reality most guides don’t talk about

Berlengas is often described as wild and untouched, and in many ways it is. But that does not mean you will have it to yourself.

During summer, especially July and August, the Berlengas can feel surprisingly busy. Visitor numbers are limited, yet several boats often arrive within a short time window. The harbor fills quickly, and the main trail toward the Forte de São João Baptista feels more social than remote.

That said, timing changes everything.

We visited at the end of September and experienced the complete opposite. Our ferry was pretty empty, and there were no crowds at all. Living in Lisbon gave us the advantage of flexibility, so we waited for a clear, sunny day.

Despite that, our original morning ferry was cancelled due to sea conditions. By early afternoon, the weather cleared, and the water calmed enough for departures to resume, so we simply rescheduled and went later that day.

That kind of flexibility makes a significant difference. In peak summer, you plan around availability. In shoulder season, you can plan around the weather. And on an island like Berlengas, the weather is everything.

Should you visit Berlengas or choose another place in Portugal?

The Berlengas had been on my bucket list for years. But after my first failed attempt in 2017, when I didn’t manage to get a ticket, it slowly slipped to the bottom of the list. Other places felt easier. Eventually, I went back and did it properly, and I am genuinely glad I did.

Standing there, surrounded by nothing but cliffs and Atlantic water, makes you understand how big the world actually is. On top of that, the beauty of the place absolutely lives up to the hype.

That said, it is not the only impressive day trip in Portugal. If sea conditions are unstable, if permits are sold out, or if you prefer something more accessible, there are excellent alternatives. 

I’ve rounded up several in my guide to the most beautiful places in Portugal, which might suit your itinerary better depending on the season and your travel style.

Berlengas is worth it for the right timing and mindset. But Portugal offers no shortage of dramatic landscapes if this one doesn’t align with your plans.

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