This Abandoned Cliffside Village Near Rome Was Brought Back to Life by Artists

Visit the ‘main square’

The small main square, Piazza Umberto I, is the center of life in Calcata Vecchia and the best place to start your visit. It’s where most paths lead, and you will likely pass through it more than once while exploring the village.

Right next to it is the Chiesa del SS. Nome di Gesù, a simple church that reflects the history and character of the village. After visiting the gold-filled, art-heavy churches of Rome, it actually feels quite refreshing to see something this minimal.

Enjoy a slow lunch

Calcata is very much about slow food, so a long lunch here is almost mandatory. We originally planned to eat at La Piazzetta, but it was fully booked, so we “settled” for Osteria del Borgo Calcata, which turned out to be a 10/10 experience.

We started with a generous tagliere of local cold cuts and cheeses, followed by several pasta dishes, secondi, and homemade dolci. There were three of us, so we ended up sharing & ordering far too much, but every single dish was excellent.

Add good wine to the mix and try Pecorino wine. Yes, wine, not cheese. Pecorino wine is a white wine made from a local grape variety, mainly grown in central Italy. It is fresh and crisp, often with citrus and floral notes, and pairs very well with cheeses, cured meats, and pasta dishes.

It was easily one of the best food experiences I’ve had in Italy, even after living here for quite some time. The service was super friendly, the ingredients clearly local, and everything followed that slow food approach that Calcata is known for. 

On top of that, there is no Wi-Fi or mobile data coverage in Calcata Vecchia (even local SIM cards didn’t work!), so for once, you are left with nothing to do but enjoy the food, the wine, and the conversation.

Check out local art studios and artisan shops

You already know that one of the defining features of Calcata Vecchia is its creative community. As you walk through the village, you will come across small art studios and artisan shops, most of them run by the people who live there.

You can find paintings, sculptures, ceramics, jewelry, and other handmade pieces, displayed in small, open spaces. These are not typical souvenir shops, and most items are locally made, which makes it even more fun. I am sure you will end up with a few purchases after your visit.

Pet the locals 

Local cats, of course. They seem to completely dominate Calcata Vecchia, usually stretched out on steps, windowsills, or right in the middle of the street as if they own the place. They are more than ready to claim all your cuddles.

It’s something to keep in mind if you are visiting with a dog. The surrounding area is popular for walks (we saw plenty of people out with their dogs), but inside the village, it can be a bit more complicated.

Stop at the Sala Da Tè

Sala da Tè is a small tea house tucked away on one of the village streets. The focus here is on tea and homemade desserts, with a good selection of teas and simple cakes. If the weather is nice, try to get a spot outside, as there is a small terrace overlooking the valley.

We ended up way too full after our lunch, but we passed by, and I have to say that it looked super cozy. As a tea lover, I was not expecting to find such a wide tea selection in Italy… that’s just another reason to come back to Calcata Vecchia.

Visit Museo Della Civiltà Contadina

The Museo della Civiltà Contadina is a small local museum dedicated to rural life and traditional farming culture in the area. It focuses on practices that were once part of the surrounding countryside before the artistic community took over.

When we visited, it was unfortunately closed, and there was no clear information on opening hours. Unfortunately, these things can happen, so stay flexible with your plans.

Find Passetto del Bacio

The Passetto del Bacio is one of the small, narrow passages you’ll come across while exploring Calcata Vecchia. It offers amazing views over the surrounding valley, so make sure to pause for a moment as you pass through.

The name translates roughly as “Little Passage of the Kiss,” which could mean that it is one of the most romantic spots in the village?! Not sure, but it might be!

Capture the iconic cliff view of Calcata

The best view of Calcata Vecchia is from the SP17b road just before reaching the village. From here, you can clearly see the entire town sitting on top of its volcanic cliff, surrounded by the Treja Valley and forest.

Valle Del Treja

The Parco Valle del Treja surrounds Calcata Vecchia and is a good option if you want to extend your visit beyond the village itself.

The area has several marked trails suitable for walking and light trekking. Routes vary in length, so you can choose anything from a short walk near the village to a longer hike deeper into the park.